A smart home relies on connectivity. Connectivity between your smart hub and each device, and often between the devices themselves. In a perfect world you would plug in a sensor, screw in a bulb, turn on a switch, and everything would happily connect and work together without effort.
The great news is you can get close to that perfect smart home.
The not so great news is that it takes a bit of planning to get there.
Different devices speak different protocols because each one is designed for a different job. Some talk Zigbee, some use Z-Wave, others rely on Wi-Fi, Bluetooth or Thread. Matter sits on top trying to bring everything into one language.
It is completely normal to be confused by all these protocols, their purpose, where they shine and where they fall over. Once you understand the basics, choosing the right gear becomes much easier and your setup becomes far more reliable.
This guide breaks each protocol down in plain language so you know what they do, where they fit and which ones make sense for your home.
What is a protocol? #
A smart home protocol is basically the language a device uses to talk. One device might whisper over Zigbee, another shouts over Wi-Fi and your door lock communicates like it is on a private radio station. They all get the job done, they just do it in their own way.
No protocol is perfect at everything. Some are brilliant for tiny battery sensors, some excel at long range and some fall apart the moment the kids start streaming Netflix. Understanding these differences is what stops your smart home feeling like everyone is talking at once.
While this guide focuses on wireless protocols, some smart home gear uses wired Ethernet instead. Wired is still the most reliable option for hubs, bridges and cameras, but it is not a protocol itself, just a solid way to keep key devices connected.
Now let us break these protocols down so you can see where they fit and which ones matter most for your home.
Wi-Fi #
Wi-Fi is the protocol most Kiwis come across first. Almost every home already has a Wi-Fi network, so most budget smart bulbs, plugs, cameras and appliances use it. If it connects through your phone without needing a hub, it is probably using Wi-Fi.
Most Wi-Fi smart devices run on the 2.4 GHz band because it reaches further through walls and supports devices that may require higher traffic. This is why many cameras, appliances and Wi-Fi plugs rely on it. The downside is that 2.4 GHz is busy. Phones, tablets, smart speakers, baby monitors, microwaves, garage motors and your neighbour’s router are all competing for the same airspace. Add a pile of smart devices and things get crowded quickly.
Where Wi-Fi shines is high traffic devices. It is ideal for camera feeds, robot vacuums, appliances and anything pushing a lot of data around.
Where Wi-Fi struggles is battery powered sensors.
Wi-Fi uses more power than Zigbee or Thread, so Wi-Fi sensors drain batteries fast and respond slowly. When a door or window is opened, a Wi-Fi sensor needs to wake up, reconnect to the network and only then send the alert. By the time it reports anything, the person has already walked through. The battery drain is ridiculous. I was basically donating to the nearest battery company.
Another challenge is that many Kiwi homes still rely on the basic router supplied by the ISP. Once you add multiple phones, tablets, TVs, laptops, game consoles, cameras, smart plugs and bulbs, the router eventually gets overwhelmed.
Wi-Fi works best when:
- your router is solid
- 2.4 GHz channels are kept clean
- high traffic devices stay on Wi-Fi
- small sensors move to Zigbee or Thread instead
Tip: If your gear supports it, set up your 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Wi-Fi as separate networks, for example MyHomeWiFi-2.4 and MyHomeWiFi-5. Use the 5 GHz network for phones, laptops and TVs. Leave the 2.4 GHz network for smart devices so they are not competing with everything else.
Some routers do not allow separate SSIDs for each band, so do this only if your gear supports it.
In my own home, I disabled 2.4 GHz on the family Wi-Fi and created a separate Smart Wi-Fi that only uses 2.4 GHz. It sits on its own network for security and reliability. We will cover VLANs in a later article.
Wi-Fi is important, but it should not carry everything. Let it handle the heavy traffic, not the tiny sensors.
Zigbee #
Zigbee is the protocol most people discover once they have had enough of Wi-Fi sensors chewing through batteries and taking their time to respond. Zigbee devices are fast, efficient and designed for tiny messages like door opened or motion detected.
Before Zigbee devices can talk to your smart home, they need a coordinator. A coordinator is a hub or radio that translates Zigbee into something your smart home platform understands. Zigbee devices cannot talk directly to your phone or Wi-Fi router.
Some systems have Zigbee built in, like certain Amazon Echo models. Others, like Google Home or Apple Home, do not, or they only support their own Zigbee devices. In many cases you will need a separate Zigbee hub.
The best option is to use a universal Zigbee coordinator, such as:
- Homey Pro
- Hubitat Elevation
- Home Assistant with SkyConnect, Sonoff sticks or ConBee
- Amazon Echo models with built in Zigbee
This lets you avoid vendor lock in and run one Zigbee network for your entire home.
Zigbee’s secret power is its mesh network. Most wireless devices act like a single road. If the connection is blocked, messages cannot get through. Zigbee is a network of side streets. Your sensor can pass its message to another device and then another until it reaches the coordinator. If one device drops out, the network finds another route. This is why Zigbee becomes more reliable as you add a few solid devices around your home.
Most mains powered Zigbee devices act as repeaters, but not all. Some cheap Zigbee bulbs make terrible repeaters and can break your mesh. Brands like Philips Hue are reliable, but cheap no name bulbs often cause chaos.
Add good repeaters and the network becomes rock solid. Add none and your sensors behave like they have taken the day off.
Tip 1: I have several Zigbee smart plugs placed around the house. Each one still does something useful, like powering the TV or a bedside lamp. They also strengthen the mesh without adding tech for the sake of tech.
Tip 2: When you add a new Zigbee device, pair it where it is going to live. Do not pair it in the office and then move it straight to the back bedroom. Zigbee needs time to learn its neighbours.
The biggest issue is interference. Zigbee shares the 2.4 GHz band with Wi-Fi. If your Wi-Fi channels overlap heavily, Zigbee can struggle. This is a common cause of flaky sensors in NZ homes.
Zigbee is at its best when:
- your coordinator is solid
- you add reliable repeaters
- Wi-Fi channels do not stomp all over Zigbee
- the mesh has time to settle
For what it is worth, Zigbee is my solid choice for sensors and day to day automations. If you are not ready to use a universal hub, you can start with Zigbee devices and vendor bridges today and migrate later. That is exactly what I did.
Z-Wave (NZ frequency) #
Z-Wave is reliable, long range and avoids the crowded 2.4 GHz band. The catch is that Z-Wave uses different frequencies in different countries. New Zealand uses 921.4 MHz. If you buy the US or EU versions, they simply will not work here.
Z-Wave, in general, cost more because the chips are licensed, the market is smaller and certification is stricter. The ecosystem is also smaller than Zigbee. In New Zealand you will mostly find Z-Wave in smart plugs, in wall switches and a small range of sensors.
Z-Wave is worth considering if:
- you already own Z-Wave gear
- you want great range
- your home has thick walls
- you prefer not to use 2.4 GHz
Maybe avoid it if:
- you are starting from scratch
- you want lots of choices
- you want low cost sensors
For most Kiwis, Zigbee or Thread will be a better starting point unless you already have Z-Wave gear.
Tip: Always buy the NZ and AU 921.4 MHz versions. Anything else behaves like it is on holiday.
Note: The authorities are not patrolling the suburbs scanning for Z-Wave signals, but using the wrong frequency is not permitted and can interfere with other services, so it is not worth the risk.
Thread #
Thread is often described as Zigbee but nicer. It is fast, low power and forms a self healing mesh. If Zigbee is a network of side streets, Thread is the newer version with better signage.
Thread devices talk through a Thread Border Router. If you have a HomePod Mini, Apple TV 4K, Nest Hub (2nd gen), Homey Pro or certain new smart speakers, you already have one.
Thread is brilliant for sensors and small devices. Thread is the low power network layer, while Matter handles the compatibility on top. It avoids Wi-Fi noise, saves battery life and repairs itself when devices move. Thread also scales well, even in busy homes or apartments with lots of devices.
The catch is availability. In NZ, Thread devices do exist, but the range is still small and many rely on Matter which is also maturing. Thread itself is excellent, but vendor support and app updates are still catching up.
Thread makes sense if:
- you want a future proof setup
- you already have a Border Router
- you want fast, efficient sensors
Maybe hold off if:
- you want lots of choices
- you want budget options
- you expect flawless Matter support today
Thread will almost certainly become a major part of the smart home, but right now it is still getting up to speed.
Bluetooth and BLE #
Bluetooth and BLE are perfect for short range communication. Most smart home devices use BLE rather than classic Bluetooth, since BLE is designed for low power use. They work well for locks, presence detection, short range sensors that sit close to your hub or gateway and some blinds. BLE uses very little power which makes it great for battery gear.
The downside is range. BLE was not designed to cover your whole house. Most BLE devices require a BLE gateway, usually the vendor’s own hub. For example, if you buy a Bluetooth blind driver, you may need the matching gateway so it can talk back to your platform. Some BLE blind drivers are a little slow to wake up depending on the brand, so expect the occasional delay.
Platforms like Home Assistant, Homey and some Amazon or Google speakers can act as BLE gateways and improve coverage. In New Zealand you will mostly see BLE used in smart locks, Tuya style blind motors and presence sensors rather than general purpose home sensors.
Use BLE for:
- smart locks
- presence detection
- short range sensors
- blinds and curtain motors
Avoid using BLE for:
- whole home sensor networks
- devices needing constant updates
- long range communication
BLE is great for specific jobs, but not something you build your entire smart home around.
RF / 433 MHz #
RF is used everywhere in NZ without people realising. It sits outside the newer smart home protocols, but it is still built into a lot of everyday gear. Garage door remotes, gate motors, cheap blinds, simple alarms and ceiling fans often run on RF.
RF is fast, has great range and uses almost no power. This makes RF motion sensors excellent. They send a quick message and then sleep for months.
The catch is that RF is one way. Fixed code devices always send the same signal. Rolling code devices change the signal every time for security. There is no confirmation or status. You simply hope the message arrived.
An RF bridge can listen for RF codes and react to them, but there is a big detail with garage doors. Most NZ garage openers like Merlin, Chamberlain and Dominator use rolling code remotes. These cannot be cloned or replayed. Instead, you give the RF bridge its own cheap fixed code remote to listen for. When that remote is pressed, your smart home triggers the garage opener through a relay and sends you a camera snapshot. If a remote gets lost, you block that code and pair a new four dollar one.
RF is useful for:
- garage doors
- gate motors
- ceiling fans
- blinds
- cheap remotes
- simple motion sensors
Note: Many budget RF blind motors use fixed codes and work well with RF bridges.
RF is not ideal for:
- anything requiring feedback
- secure devices
- large sensor networks
RF is a great way to smarten older gear, but not something you build a full smart home around.
Matter #
Matter is the new standard that aims to let devices work together across Apple, Google, Amazon, Home Assistant, Homey, Hubitat and more. The idea is simple: buy a device once and use it anywhere. Matter also makes it easier to add devices, move them between platforms and avoid juggling multiple apps.
Matter does not replace Zigbee, Thread or Wi-Fi. It rides on top of them. Thread handles low power sensors, Wi-Fi handles larger devices and Matter handles the common language part. This is why many new Thread devices are labelled as Matter, even though the two are not the same thing.
Not every existing device will support Matter. Many older products will never get updates.
Matter is young. Some devices work well, some get close and others still need updates. In NZ the selection is improving but still limited.
Matter is useful if:
- you want long term compatibility
- you want fewer hubs
- you mix ecosystems
Maybe wait if:
- you want lots of choices
- you want proven stability
- you dislike troubleshooting
Matter will become important, but you do not need to rebuild your smart home around it yet.
Which protocol? #
Most Kiwi homes use a mix of protocols, and that is completely normal.
Use Zigbee or Thread for sensors.
Use Wi-Fi for cameras and appliances.
Use Bluetooth for locks, presence and short range devices that sit near your hub.
Use RF for older gear like fans and blinds.
Use Z-Wave if you already own it.
Keep an eye on Matter as it matures.
A simple recommended setup:
- Zigbee for sensors, switches and automations
- Wi-Fi for cameras and appliances
- RF for blinds, fans and garage triggers
- Thread and Matter for future growth
- Home Assistant, Homey or Hubitat for flexibility
This setup will work well for almost every Kiwi home, and you can grow it over time. You do not have to get everything perfect on day one. Build slowly and upgrade when it makes sense.
Common mistakes #
Here are the mistakes that trip up most people early on.
- Putting too many devices on Wi-Fi
- Not adding Zigbee repeaters
- Pairing Zigbee devices in the wrong place
- Using cheap Zigbee bulbs as repeaters
- Buying the wrong Z-Wave frequency
- Expecting Matter to fix everything
- Expecting Bluetooth to cover the whole house without gateways
- Running Wi-Fi on auto channels
- Trying to clone rolling code garage remotes
- Mixing too many vendor hubs
- Buying every smart thing you see
Try this next #
- Read Router Basics and Wi-Fi Fundamentals if your network feels slow or crowded
- Explore Zigbee friendly gear
- Check out Home Assistant Basics if you want more control (Content to come)
- Try a few Smart Home Quick Wins for easy improvements this week (Content to come)
A smart home grows step by step. Build it slowly, choose the right tools and create something that works for your home. You do not have to understand everything straight away. Build your smart home one step at a time.
